Outback chill

Country towns in NSW are normally built next to a river. Or sometimes a lake. Broken Hill is not built next to either a river or a lake. It’s built next to a mining slag heap. A very big slag heap. The original hill, that looked ‘broken’, no longer exists. It was mined away long ago, to be replaced by a huge mountain of slag. Today on top of the heap is a visitor’s centre, a café and a Miners Memorial. It’s a great place to look down on the town and to reflect upon a town that owes its existence to the minerals beneath the ground.

Many very small, very old mining cottages still exist built entirely from corrugated iron. Some owners have lavishly restored and improved these monuments to another era, while others have not aged well.

Pro Hart’s Gallery repays us the $5 entry fee with its recreation of Pro’s painting studio, an extensive collection of his original artworks and four amazing Rolls Royce cars. Pro Hart’s paintings are loved by many, including us, and the gallery reflects much of his lifestyle, diverse skills, spirituality and love for Broken Hill.

The drive to Port Augusta through the southern end of the Flinders Ranges is fascinating, diverse, stunning and ever changing. Late in the day we watch the sun set over Spencer Gulf as the local aboriginal boys play football on the beach and defy the ‘no jumping off the bridge’ sign.

The great surprise of the day is the weather. A mild day, which is at times bracingly cold, thanks to a gusty wind. We prepared for the heat, but today our jumpers were on, as we shivered in a southerly that has blown from Antarctica.

Hard to believe… jumpers in the outback … in January! Of course, it must be global warming!